Unveiling the Magic of the Colca Valley

Serena Winn-Darley reminisces about her magical journey in and around the Colca Valley

Introducing the Captivating Colca 

At 3,7270 m deep, the Colca Canyon in southern Peru is one of the deepest canyons in the world. Twice as deep as the famous Grand Canyon, ancient Incan terracing covers the landscape and it is home to one of the world’s largest flying birds, the Andean condor. If that’s not enough of a reason to visit, it also has the highest chain of active volcanoes on the planet. 

The journey from Titicaca 

As we set off from Titicaca to kick start the Colca adventure, my initial intention to nap during the full day drive quickly dissipated. This journey is not for the faint-hearted; navigating the winding roads that cling to the mountainside is a thrill, a journey into deep and vibrant Peru where traditional Andean culture clings to its roots. First stop in the Colca Valley, Chivay, which has an authentically Peruvian and remote village feeling, filled with local women selling decorative Incan style clothing – a perfect place to buy alpaca socks! Unlike the other parts of Peru, the locals here are known for their intricately decorative and embroidered clothing – think straw hats adorned by colourful ribbons and full skirts. As for the valley, it is steeped in history from the Incas, whose agricultural efforts developed the rolling terraced hillsides. 

Puqio tented camp, a newcomer to the Valley 

Puqio, the first tented camp of its kind in the region, provides even more reason to stay put in the valley. Tucked away along a dusty track, Puqio embodies the simplicity and raw beauty of its surrounding landscapes, with safari style tents and adorable casitas, all perched on the edge of the canyon. On arrival, any travel fatigue quickly evaporated, replaced with an overwhelming desire to explore this quiet and remote Andean valley. Food was a highlight; we enjoyed homely, traditional dishes, made using local produce and cooked in clay ovens over an open flame. However, the star of the show was a pachamanca lunch, a traditional style of cooking food in the ground using hot stones. Evenings were spent sipping on a pisco sour watching the sun disappear into the valley, before returning to the roaring fire that had been pre-lit in my cosy tent, rounding off the night with a moringa tea on my private terrace, marvelling at the star-lit sky twinkling above. 

More than meets the eye 

The Colca Valley is an exceptional destination for hiking, but from wildlife encounters to seductive hot springs, it offers so much more than just walking potential. After an early breakfast, we headed off to Cruz de Condor in search of the renowned Andean condor. The dramatic views across the canyon were enough to wow, but it was hard not be mesmerised by the majestic movement of the Andean condor and its staggering three metre wingspan as they soared past us on the thermals. We then followed the canyon ridge accompanied by wild horses, weaving between San Pedro cactuses double my size and gasping at the staggering sheer drops into the abyss. The afternoon unfolded with an exploration of Uyo Uyo, a pre-Incan archaeological site that dates to the Wari people. Hidden from the road, we hiked uphill for 30 minutes, unveiling giant stone archways that framed glorious views of patchwork greenery and providing a fascinating glimpse into the ancient history of the region. A welcome treat, we soon found ourselves relaxing with a chilled cerveza in the hot springs, a basic but beautiful spot located next to the Colca river with the canyon towering above. Don’t skip a visit to the geysers! Despite a long, bumpy drive that felt like an ascent to the top of the world, the rare spectacle of a natural hot spring shooting hot steam into the air was more than enough to justify the journey. Just a glimpse into the vast offerings of this valley, my day of exploration left me eager for further experiences. Other visitors regaled tales of scaling the landscape on horseback, zooming down the roads on a bike and indulging in leisurely picnic lunches amidst the jagged mountains, to name a few. 

Onwards to Arequipa 

En route to Arequipa across a sweeping plateau, we made a pit stop at Mirador de los Andes, an unmissable viewpoint that takes in a sublime perspective over five different active volcanoes, including the most famous, Misti. This was one of many dramatic photo opportunities we made during our time in the Colca Valley, often accompanied by herds of vicunas or alpacas, peacefully grazing or hoping to cross the road.