There are corners of Tanzania that are household names, in particular the Ngorongoro Crater and the Serengeti, but the land between them is home to some utterly spectacular scenery that few ever see. This is Maasai land, running along the Great Rift Valley, with a handful of small villages that are home to cattle herders and no hotels. It is also perfect trekking country, especially if you are travelling with a well-oiled team to set up camp for you every night. Setting off from the Empakai Crater to the north of Ngorongoro, it is a three-day trek to Lake Natron, passing volcanoes, crossing open plains and hiking through forests. You are rewarded with not only spectacular views and meetings with locals but also a sense of achievement that comes with doing something that so few others even know about.

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