On the northern coast of Panama is an area called Bocas del Toro. Scruffy and characterful, this colourful Caribbean province sees mostly backpacker tourism, some of whom never leave due to its relaxed and happy ambience. One such former backpacker was Lucy, a softly-spoken young French woman, who met me at a deserted pontoon, helped me onto a speedboat and whisked me off to a forgotten corner of Isla Colón, the province’s main island.