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Murchison Falls National Park is Uganda’s largest and oldest park, and after my time here, it’s not hard to see why it holds such legendary status. This awe-inspiring place is a true showcase of untamed wilderness, incredible wildlife, and truly beautiful landscapes. It’s believed that Winston Churchill coined Uganda the “Pearl of Africa” while visiting this very region due to the rich diversity of wildlife on offer.
Chimp Trekking in Budongo Forest
Budongo Forest is one of the largest mahogany forests in East Africa, and stepping into its towering canopy really did feel like I was entering another world, especially coming from a rather chilly UK. The forest is alive with the sounds of birds, rustling leaves, and if you’re lucky, the unmistakable calls of chimpanzees. I can imagine that even without a sighting, walking through this lush forest would be an enchanting experience.
Tracking the chimps was a thrilling and unpredictable adventure. They’re incredibly active and can be hard to pin down, which for me made the moment I spotted them even more rewarding. Watching the noisy chimps feeding, grooming, and playfully swinging through the branches was like peering into a parallel world. These fascinating creatures are our closest relatives, and seeing them in their natural habitat highlights this!
The Power of Murchison Falls
The falls themselves are the heart and soul of the park, and witnessing them is something I’ll never forget. The Nile River forces itself through a narrow 8-metre gorge and plunges into the “Devil’s Cauldron” below, creating an almost deafening roar and often produces a misty rainbow that seems straight out of a dream.
Walking to the top of the falls was exhilarating. The power of the water was so intense I could feel it through the ground, like a drumbeat beneath my feet. There are plenty of viewpoints along the way, but the last stretch, where you walk under the falls themselves, was pure joy—being soaked by the spray made me laugh out loud. Admittedly realising I’d packed a wind breaker rather than a raincoat was a slight dampener (literally) but with the hot Ugandan sun I was dry in no time!
Game Drives
Game drives at Murchison Falls are nothing short of iconic. The northern side of the park is where the wildlife action is, and as soon as we left the tarmacked road for the dusty tracks, I felt the excitement I always do when heading out on a game drive, never knowing what’s in store.
The landscape is stunning, with Borassus palms and acacia trees stretching endlessly into the horizon. It’s teeming with wildlife—herds of elephants and buffalo, Uganda kobs with their newborn calves (I was delighted they’d been born earlier this year!), and the park’s famous Rothschild giraffes which are abundant. In fact, Murchison Falls is home to the largest population of these endangered giraffes in the wild.
One of the most thrilling moments of my game drive was watching one ambitious lion split from the pride attempting to take down a buffalo. She didn’t succeed, but the drama and tension was electric. I was lucky to have an experienced local guide join us – Emma, who has over 20 years of expertise. Her knowledge added to our amazing private guide from Experience Uganda and filled the drive with fascinating insights.
It’s worth noting that there are no restrictions on the number of vehicles per sighting, so some popular spots can get busy. Personally this didn’t affect me but I do recommend setting off early to beat any potential crowding and to make the most of the peaceful morning light.
The elephant in the room
One aspect of Murchison Falls that might surprise visitors is the presence of oil exploration and drilling within the park. I won’t lie—my initial reaction was one of concern. As a passionate wildlife lover, seeing petroleum vehicles even if only fleetingly (and once the bridge is mended this won’t be the case) and lights across the way from my beautiful lodge was unsettling.
That said, after speaking with locals, guides, and conservationists during my stay, I gained a better understanding of the situation. The government is working closely with conservation experts to ensure the park’s rich biodiversity is protected, while also tapping into this natural resource to benefit the country’s economy. Underground pipelines are being laid to minimise visibility, and the goal is for all surface-level activity to hopefully cease by 2026.
It’s a tricky balance, and it’s important to keep in mind that by visiting the park you’re contributing to the conservation of the wildlife, prevention of poaching and supporting the local community from the rangers, drivers, lodge staff and beyond. The animals have also doubled in numbers over the last ten years despite the presence of this. This is definitely not a situation I take lightly, but I came away feeling more informed about why Uganda has chosen this path and what they are doing to minimise the impact of this process. If you’re visiting, it’s worth being aware of this aspect of the park to help shape your own perspective.
A Boat Safari Along the Nile
My trip to Murchison Falls ended on a high note with a boat safari along the Nile— what started as a serene experience, developed into one of pure thrill! There’s always something magical about gliding along the water, surrounded by nothing but the sounds of nature and this trip didn’t disappoint.
I highly recommend booking a private boat if you can. It allows you to move at your own pace and linger at the sights that capture your attention. The birdlife along the Nile is astounding. While not an avid birder, I do still enjoy seeing different species. We spotted pied kingfishers diving into the water, bee-eaters nesting in the banks, and even a rare leucistic kingfisher!
The river itself is teeming with life. Pods of hippos surfaced with their characteristic grunts, crocodiles lounged on the banks, and elephants played at the water’s edge, spraying each other with their trunks. My guide even pointed out a couple of albino baboons—a rare sight that he had only encountered twice in his career!
The end goal of the journey was to see part of the falls, and bobbing around in the increasing power of the waters, as we edged closer was so exciting -what a view.
As the sun set and the golden light reflected off the water, I couldn’t help but feel a profound sense of gratitude for this incredible experience.
Why You Should Visit
Murchison Falls National Park is so much more than a destination—it’s an adventure. From the thrill of chimp trekking in Budongo Forest, to seeing the raw power of the falls and the drama of game drives, every moment here is unforgettable.
If you’re planning a trip, my advice is to give yourself enough time to enjoy the variety of activities on offer. Each one offers a unique perspective on the park, and together, they create a rich, immersive experience that you’ll remember long after you leave.
Packing Essentials
Rain jacket: The spray from the falls and occasional downpours are all part of the adventure, but you’ll want to stay dry.
Suncream: The Ugandan sun is strong, especially on the water.
Waterproof cover for your camera: Protect your gear from spray or rain.
Non-slip shoes: Essential for walking around the falls and on the boat.
Visit Uganda page for more information about this destination and all it has to offer.
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