Torres del Paine, away from the crowds

Torres del Paine’s popularity is no mystery—its stunning landscapes and epic trails draw visitors to Patagonia from all over the world, and I was fortunate enough to be one of them.

Why Visit in the shoulder season?
I have just returned from visiting Torres del Paine in October. The trails were still quiet, and prices were a lot more attractive! And while the weather can throw some wild surprises your way, that’s part of the fun. Patagonia is known for its unpredictable weather—so whether it’s October or the height of summer, you’ve got to be ready for anything. Layers are your best friend!

Where to Stay?
I split my stay between two hotels, both just outside the park; Patagonia Camp to the West and Cerro Guido to the East, and it was a winning combination.

Patagonia Camp
Patagonia Camp sits right on the shores of Lake Toro, featuring 23 yurts that give off serious glamping vibes. My yurt was cozy and had local touches in the décor. The best part? Listening to the wind howl and the rain patter while staying warm inside—it really adds to the adventure! It’s the perfect mix of being close to nature without sacrificing comfort.

When I arrived, I was treated to a warm welcome with a renowned Calafate cocktail and a charcuterie board in the Puma Room. They gave us a thorough introduction to the camp, explaining everything from their water recycling system to the excursions for the following day.

Here I was encouraged to completely disconnect.  There’s no wifi in the yurts, which forces you to unwind (in a good way!). After a day of hiking, it was so nice to chat with other guests at the bar, sharing stories over a drink.

While Torres del Paine’s main hiking routes are understandably busy, other beautiful quiet trails see half as many hikers in a year as the Base of the Towers do in a single day. What I have learnt is that no matter where you head in the park, you’ll be soaking up spectacular views and towering snowcapped peaks. Torres del Paine’s great size offers a lot more hiking opportunities than just the W Trek or the O Circuit.

Patagonia Camp offers trips to all the popular spots but also to so many other spots away from the crowds. I opted for Toro heights. It was a steady climb with fantastic views over Lake Toro and the Towers themselves.

I loved the “make-your-own” buffet-style lunch, so you can choose from plenty of options. Plus, our guide, Paulina, surprised us with hot soup and tea to enjoy, along with an endless supply of snacks to keep us fuelled throughout the day.

What really sets Patagonia Camp apart from other hotels in the region is the Camps 27,000 ha private reserve which you have entirely to yourselves; private trails, walks, kayaks, viewpoints and fishing spots. One morning, taking a radio and map, I hiked to Los Azules lookout for lovely views over Bonita Lagoon. I also followed a shorter trail down to El Toro Waterfall weaving through the forest- both I would highly recommend if you have time.

Cerro Guido
Cerro Guido is totally different from the busier parts of Torres del Paine. It’s set out on the rolling pampas, and while the park’s peaks are still in view, here it’s more about the history, the land, and life on a working estancia. From the moment I arrived, it felt like home. Flash, the estancia’s historian (who seriously knows everything), took me on a tour that covered the history of the ranch and Patagonia’s gaucho culture. We explored the old stables, church, vegetable garden, and even caught the tail end of a sheep shearing session. It was a great way to really get a feel for how life works on a Patagonian ranch.

The estancia itself is huge—about 250,000 acres—and they house and employ a full community of gauchos and their families. It’s incredible to see this traditional way of life still going strong. The rooms are traditional and spread between two old estancia houses that used to be for the workers, which gave it a real homey feel. It reminded me a bit of an English country house, but with views of the Paine Massif just outside.

The food? Cerro Guido serves up food that’s as local as it gets—most of the produce comes straight from their garden. I got lucky and arrived on an asado day (Patagonian BBQ!), where lamb is slow-cooked over a fire. It’s a tradition they do twice a week, and it was such a good way to get to know the staff and gauchos. Sitting around the fire, sharing mate, and hearing their stories. The menu isn’t formal; it’s scribbled down in a flip notebook, and the options are explained to you before each meal based on what is in season and what’s in the garden.

The best part? Riding across the steppe with the gauchos. It was just me, my guide, Kity and the steppe. Kitty pointed out condors, guanacos, foxes and some rheas (they’re like mini ostriches), But sadly no puma! The horses were super steady and they’ve got routes to suit everyone—from first-timers to seasoned riders.

In the afternoon, we jumped in a Land Rover and drove about 25 minutes, crossing streams and passing gaucho outposts, before starting a hike to the Baguales Mirador, on the border of Argentina. It was a steep climb, but Aurelie, who’s been guiding here for 10 years, knew the trail inside out. The views from the top were unbeatable.

Both Patagonia Camp and Cerro Guido offered a different perspective on Torres del Paine- being able to explore the lakes, waterfalls and forests from Patagonia Camp and the vast rolling pampas, Patagonian traditions and wildlife from Cerro Guido. This combination had it all.

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