The Art of Doing Less in Botswana

Most of us arrive on safari with roughly the same plan in mind: early mornings, game drives, quietly hoping to see as much as possible. I knew, in theory, that Great Plains Sitatunga Private Island wasn’t really about that. I just don’t think I fully appreciated what that meant until I experienced it for myself. 

From Ombodo airstrip, it’s about five or six minutes by helicopter, barely enough time to take it all in before you’re dipping down over water and islands, and then suddenly, there it is. Or almost not there, which feels more accurate. It blends in so well you feel like you’ve stumbled across it rather than arrived.

There are just two suites, one that can be set up for families, plus a pilot’s room. That’s it. No noise, no sense of anyone else around, just a magnificent baobab tree in front of the main area, well over a thousand years old, quietly watching everything unfold. 

The rooms have everything you need: air con, cameras, binoculars, charging points exactly where you want them, a radio by the bed if you need anything in the night. There’s a bath, an indoor shower and a slightly open to the elements bathroom situation, which sounds questionable until you realise it’s actually rather lovely. There’s port, sherry, a mini bar with a few spirits and wine, yoga mats and dumbbells if you suddenly feel the need to exercise (which, let’s be honest, I didn’t, but I appreciated the option). WiFi is in the rooms only, which I loved.

From an activity point of view, there’s heading out on a mokoro, about as peaceful as it gets, drifting through the channels with Moe, who has been with Great Plains for a couple of years and somehow manages to stay completely relaxed whilst noticing absolutely everything. You can walk on one of the islands if you’re over 16, or head out for a gentle drive in the evening. Then there’s the speedboat, which was thrilling: water spraying in the air as Moe navigated the bends. I knew we were in excellent hands, but it still felt like an adult theme park ride in the best possible sense.   

Birding is excellent. Even without trying, you’ll pick up 20 to 30 species without much effort, and yes, there have been sightings of predators such as lions, though not often enough to build your day around. That’s the shift. You’re not here to chase anything, and after about half a day, you honestly won’t want to. 

What you’re here for becomes clear very quickly, largely because of the people. Lizzie, the manager, has a way of picking up on things without ever making it obvious. At one point I mentioned, in passing, that my husband liked cigars and whisky. That was it. No discussion, no follow-up. The next thing we knew, both appeared at the end of a delicious meal, sitting out on the deck under an unspoilt sky. Apparently there had been a small complication: a troop of baboons had destroyed the previous batch of cigars the day before. Only in Africa. 

Sharkey, who also offers treatments, appears at just the right moment when you decide, entirely on a whim, that a massage feels like a very good idea, which it always does here. Mido and Trust somehow materialise whenever you need them, and never when you don’t, which is a skill in itself. They are wonderful additions to the team. 

We came back from a boat trip one afternoon, feeling rather pleased with ourselves for having done something, to find our bath already filled with bubbles and a bottle of cold Champagne waiting to mark our wedding anniversary. Naturally I got straight in and watched the sunset from the tub, entirely indulgent and absolutely wonderful. 

Then there’s Lady K in the kitchen, who holds nothing back. An amuse bouche of pickled beetroot, followed by tapioca with caviar, which sounds like something you might question until you try it and immediately want more. Dessert was a chocolate cake that looked like it had come straight out of a storybook, delivered with singing and just the right amount of charm, never feeling like an ambush. 

What really stays with you is how they handle the moments you don’t plan. After a long journey, my husband mentioned his back was sore, very much in passing. Within no time, a doctor in South Africa had been consulted, medication arranged, and follow-up messages sent to make sure he was comfortable. No fuss, no drama, just quietly sorted. 

There’s a fine balance here, and they’ve got it right. They are always there when you need them, but never overstep. It feels familiar without being overly familiar, warm without being overwhelming, with a little humour running through it. 

Sitatunga isn’t about wildlife, even though it’s there. I particularly loved watching the family of bats that had taken up residence in the thatched main roof. Here, it’s not about filling your days or chasing sightings. It’s about properly switching off, sitting under that ancient baobab and realising you don’t need to be anywhere else, or do anything more. 

 If someone asked where to go to truly relax, to reset, or even to ease themselves into safari without the pressure of doing it all, this is exactly where I’d send them. 

And if a lion happens to appear while you’re there, well, that’s just showing off.