Into the Gol Mountains, Hiking through Tanzania

Jonathan Goldsmith discovers the remote corners of Northern Tanzania on a trek from Lake Natron into the Gol Mountains

Trekking in Tanzania is a remarkable experience – a walk through shifting landscapes and ancient trails once used by the Maasai to herd livestock in search of water. This is a timeless land, yet no two treks are ever the same.

My journey had begun at the rim of the Empakaai Crater, deep in the Ngorongoro Conservation Area. After a night at Lake Natron Camp – with its flamingos and 12,000-year-old human footprints – we were ready for the next leg of the hike of an itinerary that you will find in full here.

As the sun started to rise, our vehicle dropped us at the trailhead, only 20 minutes from camp. We’d made an early start to avoid the midday heat, heading for the hills that encircle Lake Natron.

Although this was a relatively short walk – around 8km – the incline and rising temperature meant it would take around four hours. Our slow, steady pace gave us time to take in the views. Every few minutes, looking back offered a new perspective on the shimmering lake below.

Soon, the soft sound of bells signalled our first encounter. A young herder, guiding his goats and sheep down the trail, stopped to speak with our Maasai guide, Sammy. Curious and surprised to see foreigners on his usual route, he asked where we were heading. The answer, simply, was ‘up’. And what a beautiful ‘up’ it was.

The narrow trail wound higher, opening out into vast vistas. By lunchtime, we’d reached a shady spot at the summit, just in time to watch more herders and livestock heading down past us.

After a relaxed lunch, we were met by vehicles and driven across an immense plain. During the migration, this land fills with wildlife – and barely a soul in sight. It must be a staggering sight.

That evening, we reached Sanjan Camp at the foot of the Gol Mountains. Our tents were already pitched, the promise of a hot shower waiting. This place became the unexpected highlight of the trek.

As we arrived, a small group of local Maasai villagers came to greet us. A group of boys explained that the following day would mark their transition into warriorhood – a major rite of passage. The ceremony, attended by hundreds from across the region, centres around ritual circumcision. They must show no pain – any reaction would bring shame on their families.

Sammy had been through this himself and helped translate their thoughts. Their mix of pride and nerves was plain to see – and it was a privilege to share in that moment, even briefly. As the day ended, we wandered into a nearby gorge to watch vultures circling before sunset – a fitting close to a memorable day.

The next morning, it was back uphill. Hard to believe, but the scenery somehow became even more dramatic. This time, we shared the trail with several Maasai herders heading in our direction. Looking back, it still feels surreal to have walked for hours with them through the Gol Mountains.

There was no phone signal, no distractions – only the rhythm of the walk and the sheer joy of being present. It was one of the most peaceful days I can remember.

Eventually, we reached the top. Though my legs were thankful, I was reluctant to see the walking end. From there, we drove to the most remote camp of our journey – pitched beneath a small escarpment with sweeping views all the way to Lengai, the sacred volcano that had been our guide for much of the trip.

That afternoon, we explored the edge of Olduvai Gorge. As someone with a background in archaeology, I’ve spent hours trudging across ploughed English fields searching for pottery shards – but nothing prepared me for this. Fossils were everywhere: bones, teeth, a rodent skull, even what seemed to be part of a buffalo under a tree. These remains are millions of years old – a stark reminder of how significant this site is in human history.

Back at camp, a few of the group climbed the escarpment and abseiled down just in time for sundowners – the last of the trip.

The end of a journey like this always feels a little strange. You’re full of awe at what you’ve seen, and yet it’s hard to accept that it’s over.

The drive back to Kilimanjaro airport the next morning gave us time to reflect. This trek had taken us through landscapes few travellers reach, and deeper into Tanzanian life than I had ever imagined.

Yes, a decent level of fitness helps – but everything is carried for you, the beds are comfortable, and the food more than plentiful. If you’re looking to reach corners of Africa that so few get to, this should be high on your list. And if you want a touch of luxury at the end, we can easily combine it with a safari in the Serengeti.