Bear camp diaries: an Alaskan adventure

Few wildlife experiences can rival the thrill of observing bears in their natural habitat, and a stay at a remote Alaskan camp offers exactly that. From soaring above glaciers in small planes to quietly watching a mother bear and her cubs from a private viewing platform, each day brings exhilarating encounters. This diary recounts Destination Expert Caroline Maber’s six-day women-only expedition in the Alaskan wilderness.

Day 1

After an unexpectedly warm day and night in Anchorage, complete with dinner and cocktails at a downtown rooftop bar and a stroll back to my hotel in the dusky midnight sun, I set out on my Alaskan bear adventure.

I met a few of the other women joining this special, women-only departure to a remote Alaskan bear camp. We boarded a small seven-seater plane with Kenai Aviation for the flight to Homer. The scenic hour-long journey was followed by a 20-minute drive to our hotel, aptly named Land’s End, located at the tip of Homer Spit.

Homer Spit is a quirky strip of small fishing boats, a marina, boutique gift shops and the famous Salty Dawg Tavern. After checking in, I met the rest of the group and our female expedition guide, Caprice Stoner, for a briefing, followed by dinner to get to know one another.

An after-dinner walk was essential, taking in the towering snow-capped mountains across the water while wandering along the beach in the midnight sun. Land’s End may not be glamorous, but it is comfortable, perfectly located and offers beautiful views. A bald eagle even nested in a lamppost outside.

Anyone who hadn’t brought a smaller bag was given a duffel to decant into, packing only the essentials for the bear camp. There was a strict weight limit of around 12kg.

Day 2

The permanent daylight streaming through my window woke me early. I went for a run past local fishermen boarding their vessels before breakfast.

We set off on our first adventure: a two-hour boat trip. The boat was small but spacious, with large windows, room to move inside for warmth and a front deck ideal for photography. We spotted sea otters floating hand in hand, tufted and horned puffins, black-legged kittiwakes, common murres, double-crested cormorants and several bald eagles.

Instead of the local museum, many of us visited an incredible peony farm. The farm supplies a large proportion of peonies delivered to florists across the US. An impressive sight.

Next, our group of 14 boarded two small planes for the 35-minute flight to Chinitina Bay. Layers were essential, as the planes could be very warm or cold depending on the weather. Despite the cosy and cramped conditions, the views of the Alaskan wilderness were spectacular.

At camp, we were welcomed by staff and by the departing bear watchers, buzzing with excitement. After a guided tour and briefing on bear safety, we were given sealable ‘safe boxes’ to store scented items and shown our tents, each with a surprisingly decent camping loo.

Caprice explained that if bears appeared nearby, we were to stay together, remain quiet and follow her instructions. She carried bear spray and flares but rarely needed them. Her confidence and understanding of bear behaviour was remarkable and the bears appeared comfortable sharing their space with us.

We followed single file through the woods to watch a mother bear and her two cubs. Spending over an hour observing them, we practised photography through the telescope as the bears remained distant.

At 5.30pm, “Happy Half Hour” offered wine, beer and appetisers, followed by a hearty three-course dinner prepared by Chef Chris. After dinner, we returned to the viewing platform for several more hours, spotting bears grazing in the meadow and even a huge porcupine. In late July, it only becomes dusky around 1am; in June, there’s barely 90 minutes of darkness.

Shower cabins were heated log structures with a shower, loo and sink, stocked with essentials, including a hairdryer. Back in my tent, I tucked in the mosquito net and slept soundly, waking early again with the light.

Day 3

Morning coffee was available from 6.30am, so I grabbed a mug and sat by the fire pit, soaking in the scenery while scanning for wildlife. Several small planes arrived with guests visiting just for a few hours of bear viewing.

One of the joys of staying at bear camp is the ability to head out multiple times a day, with access to private viewing platforms reserved exclusively for camp guests. Breakfast was staggered, cold from 7am, hot from 8am, allowing everyone to start the day at their own pace. Damp mornings were common, but we were well equipped with rain jackets, wellies and head nets.

At 9am, we headed out in the ‘bear mobile’, a large safari-style truck, driving along the beach. A bear emerged from the grass and walked straight past us. Further along, another slept in a sand hollow, only stirring as a small plane flew overhead.

After lunch, we returned to the beach for low-tide sightings. A mother bear and cubs played nearby while two males bluff-charged one another for dominance. That evening, we explored a new viewpoint, observing a bear meander along the beach, only pausing around 10m away when Caprice calmly alerted it to our presence.

A few of us returned to the viewing platform near camp after most had gone to bed. The meadow held around eight bears, plus a large one strolling along the beach. At one point, a bear charged from the woods, running straight past us, apparently chased by another bear. The adrenaline was incredible.

Day 4

Caprice offered an optional 6am early viewing. While sightings were distant, we witnessed a rescue operation for a broken-down plane. Mechanics flew in, ATVs towed the aircraft and it was hoisted onto a ship at low tide, fascinating to watch.

After breakfast, we drove about three miles along the beach in the bear mobile, observing several bears up close. One bear found a fish and sat just three metres from us, calmly eating while Caprice guided it slightly away with ease.

This was the only moment Caprice had bear spray at the ready, but she calmly managed the situation and guided the bear slightly further away. We were speechless, unbelievably close, yet not one of us felt afraid.

The staff gave a presentation on homesteading and the life of Wayne Byers, the original landowner. Caprice and her husband John shared stories of frostbite, bears breaking into barns, and Wayne’s opposition to bear hunting. We toured his homestead and paid our respects at his gravesite.

Later, at the meadow viewpoint, a bear emerged from the river with a salmon. Another male tried to bully it but failed, leading to bluff-charging and a third bear joining the action. A red fox then sprinted past and leapt into the river, a perfect photo moment.

Dinner followed, with a late viewing, though the meadow was quieter after the earlier excitement.

Day 5

An early morning excursion revealed a bear carrying a huge fish along the beach in perfect light. After a final breakfast, we saw a few last bears and admired the volcanoes in clear weather.

The flight back to Homer offered spectacular views of coastline, glaciers and the spit. A few hours of free time allowed for rest, repacking or souvenir shopping, followed by a farewell dinner at a perfect spot.

Day 6

The original plan was to fly back to Anchorage, but new friends invited me on a road trip instead, an incredible alternative. Along the way, I spotted my first moose (mother and calf), visited Russian Orthodox wooden churches, took a boat trip on Portage Lake to see the glacier and rode the cable-car at Alyeska Ski Resort, enjoying stunning mountain views.

This journey combined thrilling wildlife encounters, immersive wilderness experiences and the warmth of a dedicated team. From the bears of Chinitina Bay to glaciers, moose and remote Alaskan landscapes, every moment was unforgettable. I left with a deeper respect for the wildlife and the people who protect it, and memories that will stay with me long after the trip ended.

Explore Alaska with cazenove+loyd

Discovering that kind of raw, real connection with wildlife is exactly what our Alaska expeditions are all about. From soaring above glaciers in small planes to standing just metres from a bear on a remote beach. You’ll stay in intimate camps with expert guides who bring the landscape to life, tailoring every experience specifically to you.

cazenove+loyd has deep expertise in crafting exceptional wilderness journeys. Our passion for wild places and our commitment to conservation inspire us to create truly unforgettable experiences.