Nine Days in the Kingdom of Happiness

There are few entire countries left in the world that still feel genuinely untouched. With limitations on the number of visitors, Bhutan is undoubtedly one of them.

After an early start in Delhi, and a spectacular sunrise fly-past of Mount Everest, I landed in the Himalayan kingdom of Bhutan. Met with the warmest of smiles from my guide, I understood why people talk about this place the way that they do within minutes.

Thimphu

From the airport we drove to Thimphu, Bhutan’s charming capital, where I’d spend the next three nights. My lodge sat high above the valley floor among apple orchards and young pine forest, with views across to the towering Buddha Dordenma, one of the largest Buddha statues in the world.

Our first day was deliberately gentle, a chance to ease into Bhutanese life. A short hike around the lodge stretched the legs after travelling, then came an afternoon massage, a swim and dinner overlooking the mountains as dusk settled over the valley.

The next morning set the tone for everything that followed. A local Lama led us through a private meditation session, focused on breath work, mindfulness and setting positive intentions. It felt grounding, and was the perfect introduction to Bhutan’s spiritual heart.

Later we visited the Buddha Dordenma at Kuensel Phodrang Nature Park, then stopped at Thimphu’s traditional paper workshop, where artisans hand-make Bhutanese paper from local plant fibres and pressed flowers. As evening came, sundowners overlooking the valley rounded off this first day perfectly.

Trek to Tango Monastery

On our last morning in Thimphu, we crossed the valley for a hike to Tango Monastery, a 16th-century monastery perched high on the hillside at the valley’s northern edge. The moderate climb winds through lush Himalayan forest and rewards you with panoramic views across the valley below.

That afternoon brought something completely different: archery, Bhutan’s national sport, followed by a traditional Taa-shing Jha Kang tea house experience. We were served warm Suja, Bhutan’s famous butter tea made with yak butter and salt, alongside local delicacies. It’s a comforting ritual, woven deep into Himalayan life.

Thimphu to Punakha

Leaving Thimphu behind, we headed east towards Punakha Valley along the East to West Highway, climbing steadily towards the iconic Dochula Pass. On clear days, the pass opens up to sweeping views of the snow-capped Himalayan range. We were lucky. 

Descending into Punakha’s lush, subtropical valley, dotted with terraced rice fields and traditional farmhouses, we arrived at the magnificent Punakha Dzong, known as the Palace of Great Happiness.

Our visit happened to coincide with the Punakha Tshechu, one of Bhutan’s biggest festivals, celebrating the birthday of Guru Rinpoche, the man who brought Buddhism to Bhutan in the 8th century.

Bhutanese families had travelled from across the country, dressed in their finest traditional attire, to watch the sacred masked dances and rituals. Horns, cymbals and deep chanting echoed through the courtyard as monks performed dances that have barely changed in centuries. For a moment, it truly felt as though time had stood still.

That evening, after learning how to make momos, we had cocktails by the river as Punakha Dzong glowed softly at dusk. An unforgettable setting for our last evening in the valley.

The following morning began with a gentle walk through rice paddies and sleepy villages to an ancient monastery, where we shared breakfast with Lama Nado and the young novice monks. A private blessing ceremony followed: deeply personal, and easily one of my trip highlights. 

Punakha to Gangtey

After breakfast we carried on towards Phobjikha Valley, better known as Gangtey, climbing through forests of bamboo and oak into Bhutan’s glacial valleys. As we arrived, a flock of endangered black-necked cranes circled overhead, winter visitors that migrate annually from Tibet. Watching these elegant birds in such an untouched landscape was etherial.

While in Gangtey, we tackled one of Bhutan’s classic hikes, the Loma Longtey Trail. Starting at Pele La Pass, the route winds through remote villages and high alpine landscapes used by yak herders over winter. At Kayche La Pass, standing at 3,700 metres, the views opened up across the vast Phobjikha Valley below. Fresh snow had dusted the landscape, and we even spotted tracks from Himalayan black bear and cloud leopard.

Completely caught up in the silence and beauty of the valley, we decided to walk the extra two hours back to the lodge rather than take the car. Best decision of the trip. Along the way we met local villagers, swapped smiles and laughter, and even joined an impromptu game of outdoor darts and football.

Gangtey to Paro

Our final leg took us west to Paro, a scenic drive of around four and a half hours through ever-changing Himalayan landscapes.

In Paro we tried traditional prayer flag making with a local family who’ve practised the craft for generations. Their three-storey earthen farmhouse, surrounded by rice paddies, gave us a real glimpse into rural Bhutanese life and traditions that have stayed wonderfully intact.

Our final day brought what might be Bhutan’s most iconic experience: the hike to Tiger’s Nest Monastery, or Taktsang Goemba. Clinging to a sheer cliff face high above the Paro Valley, the monastery looks almost suspended between earth and sky. As we climbed through pine forests draped in moss and colourful prayer flags, our guide shared stories and legends about this sacred site.

At times, drifting mountain clouds half-veiled the monastery, adding to the mystery. Reaching Tiger’s Nest felt like far more than completing a hike. It felt like arriving somewhere truly sacred. 

As the journey came to an end, I found myself reflecting on nine days filled with unforgettable landscapes, spiritual encounters, genuine human connection and moments of complete stillness.

Bhutan isn’t simply a destination you visit. It’s a place you feel long after you’ve left.