Summer in India: An Adventure Through Ladakh

As summer temperatures soar across much of India, it’s not typically a destination that many would consider for their summer holidays. However, India boasts a number of regions that are perfect to travel to at this time of year owing to their higher altitudes and resultantly much cooler temperatures and dazzling blue skies. One of these regions is Ladakh, often referred to as the ‘Land of High Passes’. It is an expansive area located in the northern and eastern parts of the Kashmir region in northernmost India, and one of the highest regions in the world. I recently embarked on a one-week adventure through the region in July and was blown away by the dramatic scenery, the remoteness of the region, and the vibrant Tibetan-like culture. 

Having spent considerable time elsewhere in India, I was excited to explore a brand-new region, and my expectations of this remote destination were almost immediately exceeded. Our experience was perfectly tailored to suit our interests and travel preferences, and showcased both the spectacular and diverse landscapes of the region, as well as the complex culture, which is deeply rooted in Tibetan Buddhism. One thing that was very much apparent during our time in Ladakh was the notable lack of tourists, something that is continually harder to achieve nowadays.  

Our journey in Ladakh began in the newly opened Thikse Village House, a beautifully designed four-bedroom private house which boasts phenomenal views straight across to Thikse Monastery, as well as the snow-capped Matho glacier. We spent three-nights here whilst we acclimatised to the high altitude (approximately 3,300 metres above sea level at this point), which also offered the perfect excuse to relax and soak up the views. The village houses are either purpose-built or are beautifully restored traditional village houses, where the local owners live on site. 

At each house, there is a fantastic team who make the whole experience seamless and truly unforgettable. From our private driver, who managed to navigate some rather hairy roads, to the front-of-house team serving up regular pots of masala chai, as well as the back-of-house who made sure our rooms were always immaculately presented. There’s a lot to be said for all the team members we spent time with, all of whom were so friendly, warm and attentive, with a keen eye for detail.   

Whilst we acclimatised at Thikse, we enjoyed a leisurely walk through the historic village of Shey with a visit to the ancient Shey Palace; a fantastic downhill bike ride through the surrounding countryside; and an engaging cooking demonstration with our private chef, who taught us his secrets on how to whip up a flavoursome green chicken curry.  

However, there were two notable highlights of our time in Thikse. The first was an afternoon spent at Thikse Monastery. Our brilliant guide, Pujan, noted that our time here coincided with the destruction of a sand mandala, a traditional Tibetan Buddhist art form that involves creating intricate, multicoloured designs using coloured sand which, after months of designing, are destroyed upon completion to symbolise the impermanent nature of all things. We were exceptionally lucky to have ‘front row seats’ in the temple, where we had the privilege of watching the ceremony play out – the procession of the monks, the chanting and the ceremonial destruction of the sand mandala. The colours of the Buddhist monastery and the vibrancy of the monk’s clothing was a photographer’s dream, the sounds of chanting were captivating, and there was a notable earthy fragrance of incense and sandalwood, mingling with the faint aroma of fresh butter tea. A truly unique and memorable experience.  

Our second highlight was an uphill hike from Hemis Monastery to the Gotsang Caves and monastery, which sit at over 4,000 metres above sea level. We were the only tourists here and spent time sat inside one of the temples with a monk who had been based there for the past 10 years, and wore a serene expression on his face, radiating tranquillity and calm. We enjoyed a cup of mint tea and crackers with the monk and discussed Buddhist beliefs and soaked up the quietness of our surroundings.  

Other notable experiences during our week in Ladakh included a thrilling rafting trip down the Zanskar River; a night under the stars where the team set up a bed outside so we could enjoy the spectacular night sky; a visit to Chilling, one of the last remaining metalwork villages in the region; an appointment at the Tibetan doctors in Leh; captivating morning prayers at Thikse Monastery; and a meeting with a traditional Oracle, a revered spiritual figure known as a “Lama”, who is believed to possess the ability to communicate with deities and spirits. 

The food throughout was also a real surprise and delight. Our private chef would whip up delicious light and refreshing salads and grilled dishes for our lunch – which were typically served picnic-style in a remote landscape, be it apricot orchard or by a charming stream – and we would then indulge in more local fare for dinner, which were presented in each house’s dining room. One of our favourite dining rooms was at Likir Village House, a traditional village house (still inhabited by its charming owners) which has been beautifully re-designed. The dining room was a deep mustard yellow and boasted a wall of century-old copper pots, pans and other cookware, and with the room lit up by candlelight, made for a very special dining experience. 

We made sure to try as much traditional Ladakhi fare as possible, including momos, Tibetan-style dumplings that are either steamed or fried; skyu, a robust dish made with wheat flour dumplings, meat, and vegetables, cooked together in a stew-like preparation; and tingmo, a bun-shaped Tibetan bread. Glasses of cold apricot juice were also often enjoyed, owing to the volume of apricots farmed in Ladakh.   

Ladakh as a region really is incredible and it felt so special to travel to a destination which is largely unvisited, certainly compared to other parts of India. Indeed, the diverse and dramatic landscapes were breathtaking (arid plains, snow-capped mountains and lush valleys); I’ve never seen a landscape quite like it. Our incredible trip wove together a rich tapestry of beautifully appointed accommodation, delicious dining, truly unique experiences, and next level service, which transcended into a once-in-a-lifetime adventure.