Wild Coast Adventure

When you receive an invitation from Colin Bell to be among the very first guests at his new lodge in a remote corner of South Africa’s Mpondoland, you know it’s going to be special. However, I’m just not sure any of my group were prepared for how special that would be. 

 In African safari circles, 69-year-old Colin is nothing short of a legend – and calling him a pioneer would be an understatement. He has been at the heart of some of Southern Africa’s most significant tourism developments ever since he chose to forgo university in favour of becoming a guide in Botswana, back in 1977. Some of the stories he tells of those early days are fabulous, from bouncing around from campsite to campsite in ancient Land Rovers to kayaking at night surrounded by hippos and crocodiles and how to chill beer by putting it in a wet sock! He’s lived a life that could easily be fiction. Over the years, Colin has founded safari companies and built some of the most incredible safari lodges across Africa. At the heart of every single one of his projects has been a drive to empower local communities alongside a long-lasting wildlife conservation plan. His work to reintroduce both black and white rhino, for example, has seen a huge increase in their numbers. 

So, when we heard that he was building Gwe Gwe Lodge as part of the Natural Selections portfolio on South Africa’s Wild Coast, there was an understandable sense of anticipation. Stretching from East London in the south to the border of KwaZulu-Natal in the north, the name really tells you all you need to know – it is coastal, and it is wild! 

You can get to Gwe Gwe a few different ways. The softest is to fly to its landing strip and drive ten minutes to the lodge. That might have been how we left at the end of our stay, but it is certainly not how we arrived. That adventure started in Port Edward, where we pushed a speedboat through the breakers before jumping on board and heading out to sea, following the coastline south. This is a fascinating way to understand this region and the impact of different policies over time. The highlight, however, was the whale sightings. This was May, and the very first whales of the season were heading north from Antarctica and waiting for the sardine run to come through. More on that later. 

As we neared the lodge, Colin killed the engine and asked for a show of hands, asking “who is up for an adventure?” Every hand went up. Ten minutes later, we were riding the surf into a small bay where the Mkambati Waterfalls cascade into the ocean. With no real landing, it was over the side of the boat and a short swim to the rocks before we climbed up the waterfalls and rinsed the saltwater off in a freshwater pool (complete with a built-in waterfall shower). Wet, but very happy and surrounded by stunning scenery and the odd baboon and zebra, it was a short trek to the lodge. I hope I never forget the last stretch of the journey as we hiked across the beach with the sound of singing in the distance getting ever louder, eventually to be greeted by the wonderful team at Gwe Gwe. I honestly don’t think I’ve ever had a more spectacular arrival anywhere in the world! 

Mpondoland was established in 1226, but the land here has been occupied for around 300,000 years, so it’s safe to say this is one of the cradles of humanity. The lodge sits on the edge of that sandy beach, comprising nine suites all with sea views, private pools and the obligatory outdoor showers, stretching out from the central house. You certainly can’t fault them for comfort, space and privacy. It’s clear that all of Colin’s experience has gone into creating these suites and the beautiful communal spaces that pull the property together. As brilliant as the accommodation and food is, they are not what this place is about. At its essence, Gwe Gwe is the ultimate sea-safari adventure. On the first evening, after that eventful arrival, we drove out to the hills for sundowners overlooking an ancient gorge in one direction and the ocean in the other. With zebra, eland, kudu and red hartebeest dotted around us in the fading light, we discussed the plans for the next day. One thing was for certain: we weren’t going to be hanging around. 

Up early the next morning, there was time for stand-up paddleboarding in the lagoon that sits behind the beach. With vervet monkeys playing in the bushes and kingfishers darting in and out as the sun warmed the air, it was a great start. As coffee was served on the beach, I took the chance to settle in and watch the dolphins playing in the surf while other guests swam out to play in the waves with them. We hadn’t even had breakfast by this point, and the day was only going to get better. 

A short drive north from the lodge took us to a beautiful sandy beach and, with the tide out, there were countless rock pools to explore. I recently rediscovered the fun of rock pooling with my kids; the joy of watching their faces when tiny crabs dart out from their hiding places is priceless; one day I will take them to the rock pools at Gwe Gwe. Blue crayfish, pufferfish, green and blue sponges, crabs (bigger and more colourful than at home), starfish, hermit crabs, kelpfish and even octopuses were just some of the amazing creatures we spotted along the way. Exploring this by oneself would be fun but doing it with knowledgeable guides who can explain how this fragile ecosystem works is next-level stuff. The only distraction was the enormous fish eagle that kept flying out to sea for its lunch. 

After a picnic on the beach, the inevitable question came from Colin again, “who is up for an adventure?” As before, all the hands went up. This time we walked inland, following the river that leads to the Mkambati Falls to a point where the cliffs rise steeply and caves, which have surely been used by humans for millennia, provide the perfect launch point into the deep water from around 10 metres high. Our adventure guru, Colin, led the way and soon had everyone swimming in open pools and under waterfalls. 

Back at the lodge in the afternoon, it was time to check out the spa and clubhouse which, for full disclosure, were still being constructed, but it was easy to see that they were going to be something special. Nicely separated from the main lodge, the spa will be the perfect retreat for grown-ups, while the clubhouse will keep kids of all ages entertained. The edge of the lagoon is home to the activity centre with mountain bikes, kayaks and SUPs, a bar and snack restaurant, games rooms and, bearing in mind this is South Africa, somewhere to watch rugby matches! 

With just two nights, our visit was far too short. As we enjoyed a braai under the stars and with the sound of waves crashing onto the beach, we could all see the huge potential in this magical spot. And the crazy thing is that I haven’t even touched on the jewel in its crown: the sardine run. 

 In June and July, the waters along the Eastern Cape boil with activity. Tens of thousands of dolphins, sharks, whales and seabirds join the hunt for migrating sardines, and all this happens right in front of Gwe Gwe. Pods of up to 18,000 dolphins can be seen crashing through the enormous schools of fish, followed by sharks and humpbacks rising from below while gannets dive-bomb from above. This must be one of the greatest shows on earth. 

While Gwe Gwe will take very experienced divers out to explore the spectacle, they say it’s far better to snorkel, and anyone can do that. Imagine jumping overboard and watching the orchestrated chaos of the hunt. On a good day, you might get more than 20 opportunities to do it! 

 Sadly, the plan was to head back to Durban the following morning and on to the trade show, which was the real reason for our visit. One thing is for certain, the memories of Gwe Gwe will live with us all and I would urge everyone to experience this unique and beautiful take on a traditional safari.