A Love Affair with Bhutan

The Kingdom of Bhutan is one of the most remote nations on Earth, cloaked in mystery and intrigue. Living in relative isolation from the rest of the world until the mid-20th century, the country has kept its distinctive heritage intact even through modernising in the last half-century, making it a unique and wonderful destination.

Spanning the western and central valleys of Bhutan, Six Senses have lodges in Paro, Thimphu, Punakha, Gangtey and Bumthang, all of which are set in spectacular locations. The lodges in Paro, Thimphu and Gangtey have dramatic sweeping views over the endless valleys below, with dzongs draped in prayer flags and yaks dotting the landscapes as far as the eye can see. Punakha lodge is hidden amongst lush pine forests, while the magical Bumthang lodge overlooks a bubbling trout-filled stream.

During a research trip in February 2019, I was lucky enough to be the first guest to stay in the Six Senses lodges. I fell in love with the country and the Six Senses Bhutan journey so much that I promptly decided I would love nothing more than to spend my honeymoon exploring Bhutan further on a return visit. Each Six Senses lodge has its own character, theme and unique experiences that have been specially curated for each guest, from hiking and hot stone baths, creating mandala sand paintings with monks and visiting temple ruins, to sipping cocktails overlooking Punakha dzong and interacting with residents and monks in each valley.

Life in Bhutan is simple, and Six Senses follows that mantra. The lodge buildings all blend in beautifully with the environment, following traditional Bhutanese architecture with whitewashed irregular facades and simple carved wooden roofs. The interiors are chic, minimal and very understated – everything you would expect from Six Senses. Every small detail, from the bukhari stoves, to the giant bathtubs, and the sweeping panoramic views from each window have been carefully designed, and welcome guests back home after a day hiking or exploring the endless dzongs in the Kingdom.

Each arrival process, as we soon discovered, is enchanting. After nearly two days of travelling from London, we made it to the first stop on our long-awaited honeymoon journey, Six Senses Thimphu. Named the ‘Palace in the Sky’ a stay at this lodge makes for the perfect introduction to this mystical mountain kingdom. My husband and I were completely overwhelmed by the views from the glass entrance hall, where you immediately have a sense of being on the roof of the world. We were greeted with a local juice and shown to our villa. Each of the suites and villas in the Thimphu lodge are designed with natural colours, blending seamlessly with the surrounding environment. Huge bathtubs in the windows enjoy panoramic views of downtown Thimphu, twinkling hundreds of metres below. From our villa, we could even catch a glimpse of the giant gold Buddha in the distance. Perched in a peaceful corner of the valley, we felt miles away from the hustle and bustle of city life, but close enough to dip in and out for sightseeing and shopping. We were even lucky enough to catch an archery competition at the National Stadium in Thimphu, thanks to some excellent intel from our amazing guide, Penden, and driver, Wangda.

A couple of hours drive east, we arrived at our second Six Senses home, the Punakha lodge, named the ‘Flying Farmhouse’. My first impression was how much this lodge replicates the feel of a rural homestead, symbolising the position of Punakha valley as the ‘farm’ of the Kingdom, where fresh produce flourishes year-round in this low-lying, lush valley. Penden explained how the iconic bridges all over the country inspired the aesthetic of this lodge, designed as if it is suspended above the verdant green rice fields.

We planned our time in the Kingdom to align with the Punakha festival or ‘tsechu’ as it is known locally, which takes place each February inside the incredible Punakha Dzong. The festival is scheduled in the first month of the lunar year and ends with the ‘Serda’, which is a colourful procession that re-enacts an episode of the war against Tibet in the 17th century. Penden explained the cultural and historical significance of the event, the location and how important the festival is to the locals who come in their masses to watch, enjoy and pay their respects. As well as being a special day out for the Bhutanese, the tsechu also provides devout Buddhists with an opportunity for pilgrimage and prayer.

After a hearty breakfast at Six Senses Punakha, we donned traditional Bhutanese dress – a red kira for myself and a purple gho for my husband – lovingly assisted by the very patient team at Six Senses Punakha. We drove down from the lodge to Punakha Dzong, and immediately saw huge throngs of festivalgoers heading towards the fortress, all dressed in their smartest ghos and kiras, with even the smallest children in their finery. The colours everywhere were completely mesmerising. Everyone seemed in good spirits, chatting and laughing as they gathered towards the entrance of the dzong.

Penden and Wangda expertly navigated us through the crowds, weaving in and out past all the smiling locals, finding a place for us to sit with the most incredible views of the dances. We learned how the religious dances performed during the tsechu are called ‘cham’ and there are many throughout the three days. Dancers wear spectacular costumes made of bright yellow silk or rich brocade, often decorated with intricate patterns and symbols. The festival’s masked dances were performed by monks clad in beautiful brocade clothing and pervaded by serenades and reading of Buddhist scripts. Many monks dressed in colourful masks came by posing for photos in exchange for a small donation. Lots of friendly locals came up to talk to us, commenting on our clothing and asking about our time in the Kingdom. We were so pleased to have made the effort to dress up, as the locals seemed to really appreciate it! The tsechu festivals in Bhutan are a big draw for international visitors, with many planning their trips around these. They provide a fascinating insight into daily life, culture and history in this magical kingdom, and it was a real highlight of our honeymoon journey with Six Senses.

We travelled onward to Gangtey Valley, stopping for a quick photo on the snowy Lawa La Pass, at an altitude of 3250m. Although we adored all five lodges, after much discussion and debate, we agreed that Six Senses Gangtey was our favourite. The lodge has the most unbelievable 180-degree view over the never-ending Phobjikha Valley, where you can spot rare black necked cranes on the valley floor, who visit Bhutan in the winter, arriving from the Tibetan Plateau. Our suite here was completely exceptional; every tiny detail is so carefully considered, and we adored the balcony with its state-of-the-art telescope to spot cranes, yaks and monks playing football in the snow, plus endless fluttering prayer flags draped across pine trees as far as the eye can see. The fantastic team at Six Senses Gangtey organised for us to explore a tiny monastery which is rarely visited, where we could witness evening prayers, before having a traditional dinner cooked by a local family who own the house next door. We loved chatting to the owner’s son, who asked us in his (very impressive) English about our favourite football team! I will remember this evening always; not only was it an incredibly special experience but it also gave us a wonderful insight into life where little has changed for centuries.

Our journey onwards from Gangtey to Bumthang was an experience. The scenery was completely mesmerising, especially as we passed Trongsa and the majestic Trongsa Dzong, which is the largest fortress in Bhutan. The sheer drop from the winding road is not for the faint-hearted, but the views are magical. As the gateway to eastern Bhutan and home to some of the Kingdom’s earliest settlements, Bumthang is often considered Bhutan’s spiritual heartland and is home to some of its most ancient monasteries and sacred monuments. Bumthang is known for its four valleys, covered in pristine forests and meandering rivers, dotted with quaint villages, lush pastures and farming fields. Life remains as it has done for centuries here, making it an ideal resting place for those looking to unwind and really get off the beaten track. Many of the Six Senses hosts that we chatted to in each lodge had told us that Bumthang was their favourite lodge, so we were really excited to finally arrive. No detail here has been overlooked, from the calming forest views across the rushing river below and the pine trees planted in the open-air courtyards of each suite to the delicious local produce used in many of the incredible dishes we tried. It was a complete oasis and we wanted to stay forever. The following morning, Penden asked if we would like to visit his father’s village in the Ura valley, to enjoy a tiny festival, with no other tourists. We jumped at the opportunity, and the day soon became one of our favourite memories from our honeymoon. Everyone welcomed us so wholeheartedly, offering us ara (a homebrewed liqour) and buckwheat noodles, while we watched the sacred dances. We visited Penden’s aunt’s house for lunch, met his cousins, and chatted about daily life in this wonderful village. We felt extremely fortunate to have been invited by Penden to enjoy such a special day, where the members of this small community village were so warm, friendly and kind

At the end of our journey through Bhutan, we arrived at our final stop, the Paro lodge, affectionately named ‘Stone Ruins’. Nestled amongst the pine trees and apple orchards, and overlooking the whole Paro valley, the location is spectacular. Our suite was ultra-comfortable, with sweeping views and huge windows where you can peer over all the villages, paddy fields and temples dotted below. After a day hiking up to Tiger’s Nest Monastery, we were welcomed into the huge spa for relaxing foot massages with fresh ginger tea. When the time came for us to leave Paro, the Six Senses team organised for us to meet a lovely monk to be given a surprise departure blessing of health and prosperity for our marriage.

Travelling through the valleys of Bhutan with Six Senses, is without a doubt, the most incredibly special way to experience the Kingdom and everything this beautiful country has to offer our discerning clients. This was the trip of a lifetime in every way.