A Life Changing Trek in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest

Deep in the lush southwest region of Uganda lies Bwindi Impenetrable Forest—an ancient, tangled wonderland bursting with biodiversity and home to one of the planet’s rarest residents: the critically endangered mountain gorilla. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is split into four trekking sectors—Buhoma, Ruhija, Rushaga, and Nkuringo—each offering a different route to one of life’s most humbling wildlife encounters. My adventure took me to the tricker Nkuringo region, where I was lucky enough to meet the Christmas family.

Now, before we go any further, I should address the silverback in the bushes, so to speak. Gorilla trekking isn’t your average stroll in the park. It’s sweaty, muddy, and at times can be rather exhausting. But I would take the fire ants trying to shimmy up my trouser legs (my own silly fault I might add) everyday just to see them again. This is an experience that will live on in my memories forever and I wouldn’t replace it for the world.

The Buzz Before the Trek
The day began at the charming Nkuringo Bwindi Gorilla Lodge, sipping our freshly brewed coffee and ensuring we’d had a hearty breakfast. We double-checked our gear: gloves, rain jackets, packed lunches, gators and at least 1.5 litres of water. Butterflies in the stomach? Present and correct.

At the trek starting point, with the sounds of the local women’s community singing in the background, our guide explained the morning ritual. Rangers had already ventured out at dawn, locating the gorillas’ nests from the night before. This intel ensures that even the least sporty among us (hello!) stands a decent chance of finding the elusive apes, although you never know how long this may take.

I then had the pleasure of meeting Charles, my porter/champion for the day. With a grin as wide as the Nile and a calm, reassuring presence, Charles shouldered my bag and occasionally my dignity as I huffed and puffed through the forest. Hiring a porter isn’t just a lifesaver; it’s a wonderful way to support the local community, and in return, you’ll get a trekking buddy worth their weight in gold.

Into the bush
We began with a relatively leisurely descent along dusty paths, before walking along the narrow tea terraces, offering views of the rolling hills, that were so picturesque. This was a little tricky as the path was slippery at times, but Charles kept me upright and moving forward—a true gentleman in gumboots.

About an hour in, we’d reached the bottom of the hill and our head guide paused at the entrance to the forest…“We’ve located the Christmas family,” he announced with a smile. I can’t explain just how exciting this moment was, knowing that a life-long dream was about to become true.  We had a last few sips of water (you can’t drink or eat around the gorillas) and donned our masks (to protect the gorillas from human germs) and left behind our bags, porters and walking sticks.

Face to Face with the Christmas Family
Quietly and slowly we moved into the forest, with just the sound of the bush and my excited heartbeat in my ears. After a short ramble, we saw a glimpse of a lone figure in the foliage. Then as we walked forward, more appeared, mothers lounging, a cheeky blackback hovering nearby, and two infants rolling about like furry toddlers. There are simply no words to describe the rush of emotion I felt. Watching them snoozing and interacting with each other, with the occasional glance in our direction, was beyond magical.

After a little while, our guide ushered us to move slowly around the troop to behind the thick shrubs and there he was, Christmas, the silverback patriarch. Born in 1998, he’d left the Nkuringo group to start his own family & what a beautiful family it was. Towering and majestic, with a silver streak down his back, Christmas exuded a calm authority. Even as the infants clambered over him like a living climbing frame, he remained serene, chewing lazily on shrubs, surveying his domain and sometimes drifting off to sleep. At one point he even pulled the bush in front of his face… “no pictures please”.

Our guide whispered fascinating titbits as we watched. Gorilla families are close-knit, with silverbacks like Christmas acting as protector-in-chief, while the females and younger males nurture the playful little ones. The bond between them was tangible and being so close to such a wild yet peaceful scene was deeply moving.

There’s an urge to take as many photos and videos as possible but I can’t stress enough to also put the camera down. Of course take photos but it’s important to also live in the moment, rather than being behind a lens.

The Return
After an hour, it was like Christmas seemed to know our time was up, as he signalled his family to move on. We headed back to the edge of the forest, where I was reunited  to Charles and my bag, and we stopped to have a snack and gulp down water. Then came the next element of the journey, which personally for me was the hard part – the climb back up.

What had seemed to be a gentle descent in the morning, now felt like a Herculean effort.  My legs ached and my two left feet seemed to be against me. But Charles was a trooper, encouraging me every step of the way, saying “Pole Pole”(pronounced poley poley) which means “slowly, slowly” when I flagged. I can’t lie, we cheered with joy when we spotted our exceptional drivers, Denise and Farouk from Experience Uganda, in the distance.

Back at the lodge, utterly exhausted yet exhilarated, after a hot shower, I sat quietly, reflecting on the day. It almost felt like a dream. I had seen these magnificent animals up close in their own habitat, and for want of a better phrase, felt truly privileged.

The effort of the return, stiff muscles (which to be honest hadn’t been used in years) and any sense of tiredness had disappeared.

It’s important to keep in mind that no two treks are ever the same and my fitness levels are poor to say the least. During my chats with Charles, he informed me that a lovely couple in their late 70’s found their trek incredibly manageable….a moment where my love for Charles did waiver ever so slightly.

These gorillas, so peaceful and powerful, are a symbol of both what we stand to lose and what we can protect.  If you ever have the chance to go gorilla trekking, seize it. Pack your boots, your gloves, and your sense of adventure.I know without hesitation you won’t regret it.  After all, life’s best experiences often come with a bit of mud on your boots and a story to tell.

Visit Uganda page for more information about this destination and all it has to offer.