24 hours in Chettinad

Auriole Potter extols the delights of Chettinad, a region in the southern Indian state of Tamil Nadu, known for its unique culture, architecture and cuisine. 

The area of South India’s Tamil Nadu state known as Chettinad is somewhat of a ghost town when I arrive mid-April, in the middle of tourism’s ‘low season’. It’s not surprising given the 40-degree heat that beats down for most of the day. However, what’s more surprising is that even in cooler months, when Tamil Nadu’s visitor levels peak, it seems few end up in this rural hidden gem. Chettinad’s reputation has preceded it. Throughout my trip in South India I’ve heard of the opulent mansions, built by wealthy traders, now left abandoned but intact, flaunting faded glory. I’ve also been told about the region’s mouthwatering cuisine. It’s therefore a mystery to me why it hasn’t ended up more firmly on the tourist map. I’m not here for long – just a day – but I’m determined to make the most of having the place to myself. Here’s how I spend my time: 

3pm – I arrive at my hotel, Visalam, the finest property in the area. It’s a mustard yellow, Art Deco building converted from a palatial mansion into a boutique hotel and part of the ever-growing CGH collection of small, characterful properties across South India. The pool proves too tempting, and I take a refreshing dip before settling into my pretty suite.

5pm – the heat of the day is over, and I’m collected from the lobby by the hotel’s guide, Shiva. Together we head out onto the drive, our transportation on standby: two happy and healthy-looking Brahmin cows, sporting enormous, curved horns and their characteristic humps, attached to a sizeable cart. Off we trundle through the quiet streets, and I’m struck at how quiet and peaceful it is compared to the rest of India – car horns have been replaced by birdsong. It’s a leisurely introduction to the village and gives me a sense of the grandeur that once would have been. We pass a huge palace, enormous colonnaded mansions, villagers in ubiquitous jewel-coloured saris and the odd roadside stall selling coffee and snacks. 

7pm – back at the hotel it’s time for my first taste of Chettinad’s unique cuisine. I opt for an eponymous Chettinad chicken curry and it’s an extraordinary blend of flavours: cardamom, chilli, aniseed and many more I can’t make out. It’s every bit the culinary magic I’d been led to expect.

8am – after an excellent night’s sleep in my enormous four poster bed, we beat the heat and head out on the hotel’s e-bikes to some of the nearby villages. We stop outside an enormous pair of teak doors, intricately carved with scrolls, and enter. Inside is a treasure trove of materials: Burmese teak frames each doorway, carved with exceptional intricacy; tiles from Belgium; glass from Murano. Decaying but decadent, Chettinad’s ancient mansions are a remarkable legacy of the global forays of their creators. The Chettiyars were traders and merchants who amassed huge wealth by trading precious stones in Southeast Asia. Their descendants are long gone, off to the cities in search of a more connected existence, yet their mansions remain, looked after by local caretakers who occasionally open the doors to curious tourists. 

10am – we return to the hotel for a late breakfast but not before a quick stop at the chai stall.

11am – I say farewell to lovely Visalam and head to the next village on where we stop at The Bangala, a pretty guesthouse-cum-hotel that was once used to entertain visiting dignitaries. I’m bustled off to the kitchens where I meet Chef Kasi, who’s been here for 15 years. Over the course of the next hour, I take notes as he shares with me the secrets of Chettinad’s fiery cuisine. We prepare four dishes which I then dutifully sample and exonerate.

12pm – it’s time for a second lunch: The Bangala’s six course banqueting menu, inspired by those enjoyed at local weddings and celebrations. It would be an understatement to say I rolled out of there. Suffice to say, Chettinad has left its mark and I’m already plotting how I can incorporate some of those spectacular Chettiyar interiors into my London flat.